I have surfed really big waves in Peniche, especially on Supertubos spot – you can see it HERE, but when the swell was small I was walking around making analog bnw photography. Peniche, Portugal 2019.
This is one of my favourite photos from my surf trip to Peniche in 2019.
I was walking alround Peniche searching for some decent street photos, and suddenly I saw this surfer guy sitting on a beach drinking beer, smoking weed and looking at the ocean. I sneaked as quiet as I could and took a picture. Of course my old nikon’s shutter is very loud, so the guy turned around, and asked: “What’s up bro?”.
I started axplaining that I just took a picture of him sitting at the beach, because it looked cool, I had no bad intentions, and how is the surf by the way. We started talking, and he said he was no surfer, just a guy smoking weed at the beach, he tried surfing couple years earlier, but the water is too cold and shit… After all, we spent like an hour together drinking beer and talking about surfing, life, and all the differences between Portugal and Poland.
I really miss that time, when you could shake hand and talk to complete stranger for an hour at the beach without facemasks and all this bullshit. Nowadays everybody look at you like a potential threat, keep distance, almoust run away. Hope everything will be normal again…